Standing at the counter, totally confused
You're on a video call with your mom and the jewelry shop. The salesperson says, "This one is Nakshi, this one is antique, this one is Kundan." Your mom nods like it's obvious. You nod too. You have no idea what the difference is.
No shame. Even people who grew up around Indian jewelry mix these up. They often overlap, and one piece can use more than one technique. Here's the simple version.
Nakshi: the sculptor's jewelry
What it is: gold jewelry with deeply carved, raised designs. Think gods and goddesses, peacocks, elephants, lotus flowers and temple pillars, all standing out from the surface.
How it's made: artisans often use a technique called repoussé. They hammer the gold from the back to push the design forward, then refine the details from the front (The Jewellery Editor). It takes hours and a very steady hand.
Where it comes from: Nakshi is part of the South Indian temple jewelry tradition, inspired by temple sculpture and the jewelry once made for deities. Temple jewelry is believed to go back to the Chola and Pandya dynasties, as early as the 9th century (Gulf News).
How to spot it: run your finger over it. You'll feel the depth. Look at a Lakshmi motif closely and you'll see her face, her jewelry, even the folds of her saree.
Antique: the heirloom look
What it is: gold with a soft, matte, slightly darkened finish that looks like it's been in the family for generations. Even when it's brand new.
How it's made: "antique" is about the finish, not the age. After the piece is made, the gold is given a warm, muted tone instead of a high shine. The darker areas make every detail stand out.
How to spot it: it doesn't shine like a mirror. It glows. Often you'll see it on Nakshi pieces too, which is why the two get mixed up. Many pieces are Nakshi with an antique finish.
Kundan: the royal court's jewelry
What it is: jewelry with stones set close together in gold, with a flat, flush surface. Often in the classic Mughal colors of red, green and white (Gulf News).
How it's made: gold is heated and beaten again and again into a very thin foil, called kundan. That foil is pressed around each stone to hold it in place (Katerina Perez).
Where it comes from: Kundan is believed to have started in the royal courts of Rajasthan and became popular during Mughal rule in the 16th century (Gulf News).
How to spot it: look for stones that sit flat and glassy, with a thin line of gold around each one. No prongs.
Quick comparison
| Nakshi | Antique | Kundan | |
|---|---|---|---|
| What defines it | Raised, carved designs | Matte, heirloom finish | Stones set in gold foil |
| Roots | South Indian temple tradition | A finish used across styles | Rajasthan and Mughal courts |
| Look | Sculptural, devotional | Warm, vintage glow | Colorful, regal |
| Best with | Kanjivaram and silk sarees | Silk sarees, festival wear | Lehengas, sarees, receptions |
Which one is you?
Choose Nakshi if you love tradition, temple art and pieces that feel spiritual.
Choose antique if you want that "my grandmother's jewelry" feeling in a new piece.
Choose Kundan if you love color and want something a little more North Indian royal.
Can't choose? Lots of brides wear a Nakshi haram with an antique finish for the muhurtham, and a Kundan set for the reception. Best of both.
Caring for them
- Store each piece separately in a soft pouch.
- Clean gently with a soft, dry cloth.
- Don't use ultrasonic cleaners on Kundan pieces, since they can loosen the settings.
- Don't polish antique pieces to a shine. That finish is the whole point.
Shop by style
Explore our Nakshi / Heritage and Antique / Kundan collections, all handcrafted in 22K gold by master artisans, with free insured shipping to the USA and duties and customs covered. Want a custom piece with your family deity or a favorite motif? Book a consultation and let's create it together.
